Versace’s The Spring 2023 collection is a fascinating display of archival rejuvenation and modern takes on the brand’s tendency to lean into sexiness.
The show began with a romantic piano banter before the music swirled into a funky beat as four opening models appeared at the start of the candlelit catwalk. A blonde Gigi Hadid (if sister Bella also walked) strutted forward wearing a long hooded dress with a chest slit, intense cat eyes and leg slit. “Sex for the Devil” by Icky Blossoms played with edgy lyrics like “Drugs, sex, rock and roll, the devil came, the devil came, the devil came and saved my soul.”
at Donatella Versace the vision of next spring is as seductive as it is smart, drawing inspiration from The 90s to meet the new millennium in the middle. The show captured the feel of the brand iconic runways from the decade that became models as Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista to supermodels.
Current models-of-the-moment went wild in cheeky looks that nodded to the house’s archives and to the current times. The tire necks were draped with drama. A wide belt that barely caught the hips felt like an ode to Look 1 from autumn 1991. Mini dresses spoke to the party wear genius of the house. Leather jackets and trousers displayed a tight quality.
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For Versace, the 90s were a time of unimaginable glamor and flashy couture followed by grief the assassination of Gianni Versace. Spring 2023 feels like a revival of those days with a bit less showiness, yet more courage. Instead of jewel-encrusted bustiers and printed emeralds, there are full neon babydoll dresses and matching veils. Gold baroque patterns, a signature of Versace, are interpreted this spring in rhinestones and fuchsia.
Other things that caught my eye: blue surgical-look sunglasses, purple lips, fringed bootcut pants, soft pointy knits, an arm fanny pack (reminiscent of a 2008 iPod wristband cover), micro-mini skirts, and a fluffy hot-pink feather scarf that felt pulled from real life Barbie’s cabinet.
Versace’s runways are known for strategically featuring models and celebrities to tell a season’s story or simply make the show the talk of the town. With this show 90s/Y2K revival theme, it only made sense to have Paris Hilton close. Signature to the businesswoman and socialite’s style, Hilton wore a hot-pink, sequined mini dress with a cape neckline. Even more pink fingerless gloves, stilettos and a pulled back veil added the finishing touch.
While Medusa watched the show from the printed windows, Versace refreshed the 90s fantasy for Spring 2023. blonde woman, this Versace collection of monochromatically styled looks, mostly in black, teems with skill.