Last season, designers were all about exposing the body with sheer layers; the season before that they couldn’t get over corset trend. For spring 2023, they have gone one step further, with a trend that is about how clothes are put together, and – especially – how easily they can be taken apart. At many shows, this was translated in recognizable ways: at Is them, dresses were either left half unpainted or practically cut to pieces, their frayed edges clearly visible; on Ephtychialines of delicate buttons were left undone, creeping up the sides of models’ skirts or across the fronts of dresses carelessly left open. Susan Fang, Regina Pyo and JW Andersen each offered loose, cobweb or fishnet – a tug and they will unravel. Simon Rocha aided puffs of tulle exploding from cutouts, purposefully affixed chunky, exposed zippers just begging to be undone and leaving taut, utilitarian straps dangling tantalizingly.