Halloween came early at Rick Owenswhere – much like its Spring 2023 menswear collection — the brand showed broad-shouldered jackets, hooded coats and Frankenstein boots for its womenswear presentation at Paris Fashion Week. But if the menswear show banished our doomsday fears with a runway full of flaming orbs, the womenswear collection quelled some of those concerns, with a cascading fountain and an abundance of water vapor permeating the set.
On a sunny Thursday afternoon at the designer’s old stomping grounds of the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens executed on the season’s apocalyptic energy as models descended a steep staircase in platform knee length boots. The opening of the show confirmed that the brand’s signature broad-shouldered jackets are indeed backs, manifesting in sharp pagoda shoulder pads on layered dresses that resemble a Roman toga.
Owens also experimented with draping. With the classic silhouette of a tunic, the fabric is tied at different points of the body, such as the hip or waist, creating exciting points of tension and release along the body. As expected from the brand, an element of technical wear is also present, evident in chunky silver zips, an exaggerated oversized black rain jacket and heavy metal cuff bracelets.
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Likely inspired by Owens’ recent trip to Egypt, the collection’s color palette alternates between sandy browns, earthy yellows and various shades of beige. The choice of color, combined with the dawning of technical wear, is reminiscent of costumes worn in the desert “Mad Max: Fury Road.” Yet this rawness is also offset by looks that are very feminine, with a selection of voluminous tulle ball gowns in vivid pink adding an unexpected glamor to the collection.
See every look from Rick Owens’ Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.