A host of new watches just debuted. These are the best of the bunch.

Today I saw a watch unlike anything I have ever seen before. It may sound extreme, but bear with me. It is a new Bulgari, made in collaboration with the Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima, made entirely of mirror-polished surfaces. (You must watch this video to see the piece in motion—it’s absolutely insane.) The second hand appears to float in mid-air as the face of the watch reflects back at you. That looking into your soul, male. This is just one of the unique and wildly cool watches that debuted at the Geneva Watch Days event, which kicked off today.

Geneva Watch Days was founded in 2020, at the height of the pandemic, after the other major watch fairs canceled their planned programming. Watch fairs have since returned to normal, but GWD keeps ticking, now billed as a “decentralized and self-managed multi-brand watch event,” and still heavy on wild new pieces from independent watchmakers. Below, we round up the very best from the event so far.

Doxa’s Army

Not all watches at GWD are off-beat – some are just atypical well. The Doxa Army falls into the former category: earlier this year Doxa released a limited edition ceramic version of the Army, but now the watches are going wide. The Army, originally made for military divers in 1968, is released in stainless steel with a black bezel and bronze with a hunter green finish. And the chunky orange hands and blocky Tetris-shaped indexes give this dial just the right amount of drama.

MB&F’s Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO

Okay, let’s get crazy. No brand scratches more strangely than MB&F, which regularly breaks out spaceship– and android-shaped watches and clocks. For GWD, the house is releasing two more versions of its LM Split Escapement EVO: one in an “icy” colorway and another “Beverly Hills” with a limited edition black dial. The show stopper here is the suspended balance wheel in the center of the dial. (In the simplest terms, it’s the component that keeps track of time; think of it as a pendulum.) This is some high-level urological wizardry going on.

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