On Monday, Stuart Vevers presented its spring collection 2023 for Coach in New York City. Set on a dreamlike pier, the show followed a narrative-style presentation that opened with models calmly walking the runway, some chatting, others dancing. One even walked with a dog.
What started as a beige world of khakis and preppy trenches evolved into an exciting array of gingham babydoll dresses, distressed knitwear and oversized leather jackets. While the overall color palette is quite muted, there are exciting moments of color that pop up unexpectedly, like in a pair of jelly sandals or in knitted patchwork. Vevers’ fascination with academic aesthetics continues as seen in Mary Janes, letterman jackets and bags seen everywhere.
In typical Coach fashion, the collection plays off themes from Americana. “We riffed on the cowboy, the sailor, the one [American] family,” says Vevers backstage. “Perhaps more than any other season, this season feels like it draws from so many past, present, future. It’s very fluid and it’s very inspired by the next generation.” (That would explain why there were so many TikTokers seen in the front row that afternoon.)
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Looking to the future also means shifting towards unisex pieces. A lot of the looks feel genderless, and that was design-wise: “I look to the next generation… That’s how they think about gender. It’s much more fluid. There’s not a men’s bag or women’s bag in the show.”
Perhaps the person who best embodies that fluidity is an American rapper Lil Nas X, who made a surprise appearance to close the show. (Afterwards, he was officially announced as Coach’s new global ambassador.) Heads turned in the crowd as the rapper strutted down the court in a leather vest, shorts and a pair of purple jelly sandals.
“I just think he’s amazing,” Vevers says. “He really pushes himself, he pushes boundaries.”
See every single look from Coach’s Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.