It’s a well-known fact that fashion is cyclical, and if you stick with something long enough, it will eventually become trendy again. This is the Italian brand Blumarine has become known for. While it was founded in 1977, the brand’s ethos is very much associated with Y2K era.
For its spring 2023 collection, Blumarine continues to borrow from the noughties, but adds a more imperfect, utilitarian twist. Flowers mini skirts and blonde crop tops have been traded for ubiquitous loadsflared denim bell bottoms and lots of religious iconography.
This was told by creative director Nicola Brognano Vogue last season that “[his] Blumarine is dirtier, bitchier, sexier,” – and this collection is certainly a testament to that. Models strutted the runway in dangerously low-cut, acid-washed denim jeans, paired with body-hugging sheer tops corsets and even shredded denim cowl-neck tops that reveal bare flesh underneath. There were undeniable similarities to looks made famous by “The Simple Life”-era Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie, as well as “Dirrty”-era Christina Aguilera and Britney Spears’ famous coordinating denim outfit with a certain ex-boyfriend.
Of course, the collection also includes a host of more femme looks that stay true to Blumarine’s signature aesthetic, but with a slightly messy twist. Models floated by in elegant tiered silk dresses that had patches of ribbon behind them. It was almost as if the pieces of fabric had been torn from the dress, giving the otherwise feminine look a slight grunge undertone.
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Its signature rosebuds are strong once again, but this season Blumarine all but ditches its familiar butterfly motif in favor of a Christian cross; the symbol is plastered all over denim, made into ornaments, or worn as a sheer top itself—certainly a blasphemous choice that would make any devout Christian gasp or at least roll their eyes.
Brognano continues to push the envelope by expanding Blumarine’s traditional female audience to include menswear. One male model rocked studded denim jeans paired with a cropped tank top with Blumarine’s logo across the chest. That unisex pieces successfully breaking gender barriers.
All in all, the collection pays homage to Y2K’s kitsch and flashy glamour, but with a more raw edge. We are immediately transported back to high school by a collection full of pieces we wish we could have worn.
See every look from Blumarine’s Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.